Beaded welting



Jan. Y, 1950 W, C, VIZARD 2,494,786

BEADED WELTING Filed March 26, 1949 6. Kazaa/CZ y 75W 4723,@

oawnegy Patented Jan. 17, 1950 William Vizard', Brockton, Mass., assignon to Barbour Welting Compa-ny, Brockton,` Mass.,` a`

ccpartneuship Application March 26, 1949*,A SerialNc. 83,659`

(Cl.` lil-146) 1 This invention rela-tesV tor the manufacture of beaded welting and pertains more particularly to improvements in methods of making twoeunit 'shoe welting having an upstanding bead adjacent its inner edge to engage the upper ot a shoe and thereby prevent grinning of theV same and the admission of water or moisture to the sea-mi.

The principal purpose oi the invention isto produce, by simple and economical methods and from relatively inexpensivemateriall a satisface tory beaded welting` madefrom a standard strip of Goodyear welt, asf a base unitpand a small strand of grain leather, as a bead unit, in such a way that the welt extension and the topof the bead of the assembled' Weltingpnesent grainsurfaces. The economies eiiected` by producing a beaded welting in accordance withJ improve'- ment are substantial? as# compared with the cost of making conventional types of beadedl welting heretofore produced; and the resulting product is more flexible and easier to build into a shoe than welting heretofore'mad'e with a grain surface extending completely over the welt exten sion, the bead and the inseam edge.

Recommended embodiments of the invention are shown in the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a strip of standard Goodyear welt, conventionally beveled and grooved, showing the removal of a thin and narrow ribbon from the grain side of the strip adjacent the beveled edge;

Fig. 2 is a perspective View of a relatively small strip of grain leather, showing the chamfering of a small rand from one corner of the grain edge, and the formation of a vertical slit through the grain surface to provide a flexible lip at the opposite edge of the strip;

Fig. 3 is a perspective View of the two-unit beaded welting, assembled from the strips of Figs. l and 2;

Fig. 4 is a View similar to Fig. 2 showing a modified form of slit in the small welt strip.:

Fig. 5 is a View similar to Fig. 3, showing the beaded welting assembled from the strips of Figs. l and 4; and

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary transverse section through the toe portion of a lasted shoe, showing the application of the improved welting, in building the shoe.

In the form chosen for the purpose of illustration in Figs. l to 3, the beaded welting is produced from a strip of standard Goodyear welting II, beveled at I2 and grooved at I3 in accordance with common practice; and a small strip of grain 2L leather I4 whichs is" substantially square in cross section.` The` Goodyear welting: I of Fig.` 1. of standard dimensions approximately 1/2 wide and thick, and constitutes the base` unit of the improved welting.. The. small strip I4 of Fig. 2 is 1/8 thick, and pretera-blyhas alwidth of on its upper or grain face and a width of ya" on its lower or flesh. face.. Thestrip' M: maybe of scrap stock` or a byproduct; of au fillet of grain; leather used for other purposes..

In accordance with this..invention',. a relatively thin, beveled ribbon*` I5, approximately 2 thick at its outer edge andate Wi'd'e isskived from the grain` surface I6 of the welt strip,` adjacent the bevel I2, to provide aroughened surface band I"I to whichthe beadunit may be cemented: as hereafterv described.. The smaller strip1 M, constituting. the` bead unitsis chamfered orroundedalong one corner of its grain topi byfremoving a small `rand I andzafveirtica'l incision I9 is cut through the.` grainsurface adjacentzand parallel to theopposite edge ct the: strip.` Theecut I9 is preferably made approximately EL!" from the unchamfered edge of the strip, and is preferably g3g" deep. This incision forms a thin and liexible lip 2U.

The cut I9 is next spread open by bending the lip 25 downwardly along the flexible grain hinge beneath the apex of the incision, and the flesh base of said strip is then cemented to the top of the base unit I I, with the outer face of the lip 20 cemented to the bevel I2 of the base unit, as shown in Fig. 3. The assembled welting may be pressed and molded to bond the units together and thereby provide an improved beaded welt in I which the base unit presents the grain extension I B and the bead unit I4 has a grain surface 2I along its top and a rounded corner 22 along its outer edge. The beveled edge of the base unit and the lip 20 bonded thereto provide a composite inseam ange of flesh material which is relatively fiexible and easily receives an inseam stitch passing through the groove I3 and the crevice or channel 23 formed by spreading the slit I9, as shown in Fig. 6.

In the modified forms shown in Figs. 4 and 5, the incision in the bead strip I4' starts with a chamfer out 24 at the grain top of the strip, thereby forming a rounded shoulder 25 along the inner top corner of the strip, to correspond with the rounded shoulder 22 along the outer top corner as above described. The cut is then directed downwardly at 26, in the same manner as the cut IS. The flexible lip 2T, thus formed, presents a thicker outer edge 28 which slightly increases the edge thickness of the inseam flange,

3 when the modified bead unit is applied to the base unit Il, substantially as above described and as shown in Fig. 5.

Beaded welting made in accordance with this invention is inseamed to the shoe as shown in Fig. 6, and outseamed in a conventional manner. The inseam stitch 29 passes through the relatively thin portion of the composite inseam flange, between the groove I3 and the crease 23, as above indicated. Inasmuch as the improved welting is made from a standard Goodyear welt strip which is regularly made by and available to welt manufacturers, and from a small, substantially square strip of grain leather which mayconsist of scrap material also available to the Welt manufacturer, the cost of production is substantially less than the cost of manufacture of the usual types of beaded welting heretofore available. Furthermore, as the composite inseam iiange consists entirely of flesh stock, it is relatively flexible and easier to bend when inseaming or outseaming the beaded welting, in making a shoe. Ornamental stitching may be applied to the top of the bead by sewing through the bead unit, or through both the bead unit and base unit, after assembly.

I claim:

l. A method of making two-unit beaded welting, which consists in skiving a relatively thin and narrow ribbon from the grain surface of a standard, beveled Goodyear welt strip, adjacent the beveled edge thereof, to provide a base unit having a roughened band on its top surface along said edge; making a deep, vertical incision through the top grain surface of a leather strip of substantially rectangular cross-section adjacent and parallel to one edge of said strip, to produce a liexible lip; spreading said incision to bend the llip downwardly, thereby providing a bead unit; and cementing the base of the bead unit and the outer race of said lip to the roughened band and beveled edge, respectively, of said ybase unit.

2. A method of making two-unit beaded welting, which consists in skiving a relatively thin and narrow ribbon from the grain surface of a standard, beveled Goodyear welt strip, adjacent the beveled edge thereof, to provide a base unit having a roughened band on its top surface along said edge; making a deep, vertical incision through the top grain surface of a leather strip `of substantially rectangular cross-Section, adjacent and parallel to one edge of said strip, to produce a flexible lip; chamfering the grain surface at the opposite edge of said strip to provide a rounded corner along the top of said opposite edge; spreading said incision to bend the lip downwardly, thereby providing a bead unit; and cementing the base of the bead unit and the outer face of said lip to the roughened band and beveled edge, respectively, of said base unit.

3. A method of making two-unit beaded welting, which consists in skiving a relatively thin and narrow ribbon from the grain surface of a standard beveled Goodyear Welt strip, adjacent the beveled edge thereof, to provide a base unit having a roughened band on its top surface along said edge; making a deep vertical incision through the top grain surface of a leather strip of substantially rectangular cross-section, adjacent and parallel to one edge of said strip, to produce a iiexible lip; chamfering at the time of making said incision the grain comer of said strip opposite said lip; and chamfering the grain corner at the opposite free edge of said strip, to provide a bead having rounded corners along both its top edges; spreading said incision to bend the lip downwardly, thereby providing a bead unit; and cementing the base of the bead unit and the outer face of said lip to the roughened band and beveled edge, respectively, of said base unit.

WILLIAM C. VIZARD.

No references cited. 

